Adding internal rigging wire

A possible cure for the deck is to add an additional internal tie bar or rigging wire. I took this route and I am still evaluating whether more reinforcement is needed.

I will be writing an article about this when I am satisfied. In my case the constraint was that there should need to be no disturbance of anything already in the hull. On the port side this was easy but to starboard the removable chart table was the constraint on how low I could place the pad eye on the bulkhead on the starboard side.
For symmetry, I placed the pads in the same relative positions port and starboard.

The S/S plates were fabricated by a relative who used it as self-training for his fabricators job.

The bottlescrews came from a secondhand chandlery, but it took the purchase of 4 bottlescrews before I had a pair that had not been stretched.

I drilled a hole in the triangular plate under the deck and fitted a clevis pin through it . In the end I reversed the pin so that the split pin faced away from the cabin.

The rigging wire came from my re-rigging after 20 years , complete with swaged on ends. I used some £10 Chinese boltcroppers to cut it and they worked ... (Bolt croppers constructed to an accuracy of about 3 mm, I have never seen such wibbly wobbly nuts and bolts) The bolt croppers are therefore in my tool locker as I had an unfortunate experience (not my boat) in 2004, and I now value bolt croppers as being somewhat useful on a boat.

The other ends are Norseman screw-on terminals and by a process of shuffling in the second-hand chandlers I managed to get two with the little insert 'bullets'. These just tighten up and grip the wire without the need for a hydraulic press.

Then I just tightened up the bottle screws and waited. The tension remains in the wires and the rigging above deck is now tighter.

Pic 1. The backing pad: 13mm ply epoxied to the bulkhead.. I propose to glass this in with some tape as well.